This may not be the most elegant shed but in saves some money on framing material.
And the outside look is determined by the sheathing you put on anyway.
So if you have a source of supply of pallets all the same size, just start fastening them together.
Here's how one guy did it.
To put together all the walls I used about 50 3½ inch long, 5/16 inch bolts along with washers. If I had it to do over again, I might have used ¼ inch bolts and saved a little dough.
To start the second level wall, I bolted 2 sections together, then placed them on top of the first wall, beginning at a corner. I continued bolting one section to the next, until I had gone all around the shed's 2nd level. To secure the 2nd level to the 1st level, I used a couple of short pieces of 1X4's inside of the walls of the pallets with bolts (about 24 bolts) all the way through. It took 4 inch long bolts for this.
For the roof I used 2X4s (12 feet long) turned on their sides (2X6s would be better, but cost more). I raised the front of the shed's roof by another 10 inches using 2X4s as extensions. This would give the roof the slope I think it needed. Across the 2X4s I placed 1X4s (12 feet long) secured with 3½ deck screws (63 of them since I put 2 at the ends of each 2X4). For the roofing material I selected galvanized carport type sheet metal from Builder Bob's in Ardmore. Jill even took a picture of me putting the sheet metal on top.
For the exterior walls I chose 4X8 sheets of 7/16 inch thick ‘Knotty Pine BarnSide
To the siding I applied a good coat of Battleship Gray oil based paint (not water based Latex)
This is a pic of my shed doors which I already had made from a previous shed and just had to modify a little to make them work on the new shed.
For more great pics and details go to the source article — Click Here —
This guy eventually poured some concrete corner foundation supports.
A row of pressure treated timber (4×6) pined to the ground might be how to start this project.